GRITTY

North Georgia's Logan Turnpike Mill knows grits (http://loganturnpikemill.com/). I'm a snob about many things, but I can't claim grits to be on of those. I eat instant and like it. But stone-ground grits are real grits. It's the risotto of the South, which is why few enjoy them. Takes time. Takes finesse. You will burn a pot of stone-ground grits. You will undercook them. You will overcook them. You will add too little liquid. You will add too much. It's a learning experience. The curve is unforgiving. Grab a pound and go to work.

If you've ever made risotto, you are halfway there. You already know about stirring. You know constant stirring opens up the grain; same here with the grits. Water's a fine liquid as long as it's crystal clear and ice cold. I use Kalona Farms Whole Milk from Iowa. When I'm pairing grits with meat, I add the meat's cooking liquid to the grits. This zips the dish up, puts it rightly together. Tight, realized.

When that meat is braised lamb, country sausage, venison, pork, you're doing well. Find a vegetable. Greens are good. I cream fresh spinanch and keep my grits strirring. Butter to the grits. Salt, pepper, some hot sauce. Smear some to the plate; top with the greens; a handful of meat. You're done. Save the leftovers for the a.m. and embellish with fried egg.