SHANK

Ossobuco is difficult to top. Veal shank braised in vino bianco and aromatic veg sets the bar quite high. The gremolata and amount - and quality - of saffron really seals the deal. Sometimes I can't find shanks suitable for Ossobuco. I really need something hyperbolic, and Flintstonian. Otherwise, the dish's point is lost in moderation. How depressing. When the butcher gives me less sizable shanks, I think of other, perhaps simplier, ways of preperation.

Nothing beats flash searing an opressively seasoned shank. The incendiary pan creates a sumptuous crust; the interior remains ruddy, pink, nearly raw. In short, fantastic. Deglaze with brown chicken stock and a splash of brandy. Watch those flames. They'll get up there with a pan that hot. It's best to add the alcohol off the heat. Maybe pour yourself a finger. Reduce. Monter au beurre... A splash each of vinegar, Lea & Perrins. Check the seasoning.

In true short-order fashion, I had three pans going. One with sliced pig cheek bacon. The other to wilt baby arugula. Once the shank has rested, plate with the jus, arugula salad with lardons. I had some mint "pesto" up my sleeve, so I decorated the jus with leopard spots.

The small shank presents a limitless amount of texture and tastes with a really easy prep. Should I even mention it set me back $2? Verging on criminal, I splurged on booze and left with two Duvel.

Don't forget to use the fork tines to extract the bubbling marrow!