COQ AU VIN

Runny noses and achings for rye whisky eventually turn into a shaking jones for one-pot a la francais. Other than the regal Cassoulet, Coq au vin's the "best," as long as you can locate a young chicken, guinea fowl, or robust rooster.

Ingredients are minimal. Button mushrooms and onions; a bottle of Burgundy; some streaky bacon; butter; a few splashes of brandy, and BLOOD. Add bouquet garni and set aside two hours. You're ready.

Brown the onions with the bacon. Add the mushrooms and let them shrivel. Remove. By now you've butchered your bird, sectioning off two legs, two thighs, two breast and back portions. Reserve the neck, gizzard, heart and liver. Brown the bird in butter. Don't be antsy. Go ahead and pour yourself a glass of the Burgandy. Let them fuss and pop. That's the only way to insure a decent crust. When browned bring all the ingredients - including the neck - together in a crock. Glug... glug... glug... the wine. Boil. Simmer.... Simmer.... One hour later, remove bird, mushrooms, onions, bacon.

Bring the sauce to a slow boil. Chop liver, heart, and gizzard into mushy dice. Toss them to the sauce. Reduce. Reduce. Reduce. Monte beurre... The sauce should silken up, and give a great sheen. Now the thickener: A tablespoon of sow's BLOOD. Don't let it coagulate; beat it into the sauce. A splash of brandy. Wow. Delicous.

Run to the table! Run! Another bottle of wine! Some bread. Try to control yourself.