CHITTERLINGS

Call me surprised. There hidden beneath depressed looking brown slabs of beef liver covered in plastic were tiny cylindrical tubs of "organic, anti-biotic free" pork chitterlings. Triple slung, pre-cooked and ready for the grill.

But the weather wasn't cooperating. Wet, cold. Spitting rain. I mixed up a small bowl of mustard vinaigrette, rubbed the chitterlings with the mixture and left them in the bowl to soak. Preheat the broiler... 500 degrees.

Skewered and set under the heat. They took on some char, which is what you're after. Crunchy bits of chitterlings are far beyond those chew-your-cud experiences in drab "soul food" shacks. Paired with horseradish mashed potatoes, nut brown ale. Gutsy supper for a cold, wet night.