BEEF SHANK

Veal gets all the press. But given enough attention, it's second fiddle. You don't have to dote on the beef, but a good violent searing in cast iron doesn't hurt. Crusty, brown, fragrant. It almost sounds smutty. Pair the braised shank with a sauce enlivened with its own marrow.

Spartan boiled potatoes on the side. Some green sauce. You've got it.