BREAKFAST

Guinness & devilled livers?

Yes.

There is no more steadying gnosh. Don't be afraid. The only thing missing is a cigar after it's all over.

Only the happiest chicken livers will do. Search out large livers from jolly chickens. If they're slick and bright and have no smell, they are fresh.

Season some organic all purpose flour with sea salt and pepper, dry mustard and cayenne. Dredge the livers in the flour and shake off the excess. Meanwhile, melt down a knob of butter in a heavy saute pan. When it's translucent, add the livers. They wil become unruly and make a lot of racket; ignore them. Let them brown on one side. Add a good cup of room temp chicken stock to the pan and turn the livers. Lea & Perrins is useful here; just a dash. A decent balsamic vinegar is good, too. Add some.

Brown some thick toast under the broiler. Livers, toast. Toast, livers. A glass of Guinness. Breakfast!

A salad of miuzuna or other bitter greens with mustard dressing works well with this, but I'm usually too full to finish with something that's actually healthy. To each their own.

Photo: Breakfast