Friday, February 8, 2008

FROM THE SKY (TO THE PLATE)

Georgia's wood ducks, while wobbly, taunting flying vehicles, are straight forward taste wise. Fully gamy and rich as calves' liver, it's a meat that needs little tending other than a dusting of sea salt and black pepper.

First, you must kill them. Might I suggest a Browning 12 GA and a three inch Remington steel shot shell? It works for me.

Then, you must dress them. Pluck the feathers from the breast; remove the thin layer of fat with a knife and take the breast from its chest, cutting slowly underneath from the middle to the far left and following the bone; repeat the process on the right.

I paired a medium rare duck breast with a warm salad of chicory and pink lady apples with a mustard and anchovy vinaigrette. One could use dandelion or even romaine or bibb, but I like the woodsy chicory flavor.

For medium rare duck, heat a pan over high heat with a little olive oil. Add the seasoned breast meat and sear on both sides. Finish in a warm oven for five minutes.

Meanwhile, place your salad greens in a smoking hot pan - cast iron is great. The chicory will bunch up like a dead spider. Let it gather color. And then chop and toss with your vinaigrette.

Mustard & Anchovy Vinaigrette:

Two salt-packed anchovies broken up with a fork
A tablespoon of good whole grain mustard
Two or three tablespoons of cider vinegar
The juice of one lemon
Olive oil
Sea salt & pepper

Mix the anchovy and mustard into a paste and add the vinegar and lemon juice, which will unify the oil and vinegar. While stirring, add your oil in a steady stream until the vinaigrette comes together. Taste, season.... It's time to eat.


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