JOLLY HEN

The Cornish Game Hen. Not really game, not quite substantial, but with a taste adequately - but oddly - described as "superchicken." They need little gussying, but I draped them with applewood bacon and braised them over purple cabbage, cider and juniper.

Cornish hens stay together over a long, slow cook - two hours plus in a 320 degree oven. Serve with mashed potatoes and the braised cabbage.

Here's a quick recipe for perfect mash:

You'll need a few pounds of potatoes. The floury the better. Boil them, skins on, in a salty bath until tender. Let them cool and then peel their skins. Add a large knob of butter and a good glug of whole milk or cream to a hot pot. Let it come to a noisy bubble. Add the potatoes. A nice spoonful of the cooking liqour from the hen braise will go nicely, too. Mash the potatoes in the liquid taking care to leave it smooth, but not without bumps in the road. Season with sea salt and black pepper. You can add some grated horseradish, too.

Photos: (a) Ready for the oven; (b) suppah...