CLAMMY

Mexican Seafood is pretty killer Nirvana tune; I think I like it more than "Paper Cuts." The lyrics, however, are unintelligible. I counter here with bona fides Sexican Mefood: Neuvo Clam Dip. The shopping list is brief. Prep is briefer. The eating experience: If only it could go on forever. You're going to need a good, reliable source for fresh clams, viz. littlenecks. Look for tightly closed bivalves and ask the fishmonger if you can smell them. They should have little to no odor, 'cept for the brininess of the sea.

Get about three or four pounds, allowing for some that won't open during the cooking procress (don't force those to give up their meat; they're poison). Saute them in beer; I used Imperial. Any lager will do, but remember you're going to reserve some of the cooking liquid so you don't want to use something you've got to hold your nose to drink. Once the clams open, discard the ones that remain closed and let them cool. When cooled pull the meat from the shell and mince it. Reserve a .25 cup of the cooking liquid. Now it's time for swine.

Bacon. Any sort will do but I like thick-cut applewood smoked. Brown .50 pound and crumble into a large bowl. Add the minced clams, a block of softened Neufchatel cheese, .50 cup of Mexican crema (basically sour cream but with carragheenan), a handful of chopped cilantro (coriander), one minced chipotle pepper and one minced habanero pepper. Mix. If the dip is too thick, add some of the reserved cooking liquid. I plate this simply with a garland of cilantro around it and mound a tower of charred minced red bell pepper in the center. Serve with vegetables: Jicama, carrots, celery, or tortilla chips. Sexican Mefood... Hells yes.

Photo: Clammy!